Who harvests gebana oranges?
We ship hundreds of thousands of kilos of hand-picked oranges from Greece every year. Developing a system that ensures fair working conditions for harvest workers is challenging.
People who harvest fruit or vegetables for a living have little to laugh about. No matter where they are in the world, those who carry out this work are often subject to unfathomable, inhumane conditions. This is because agriculture is the Wild West of the food industry. Only the strong survive.
Time and again, reports in the media highlight the issues stemming from this lawlessness. In 2022, Infosperber reported on the "schockierende Arbeitsbedingungen in Schweizer Bauernbetrieben" ("shocking working conditions on Swiss farms"). In February 2023, Süddeutsche Zeitung reported on the terrible working conditions of Eastern European workers on German farms with the headline "Zahnschmerzen, Lohndumping und Kakerlaken" ("Toothaches, wage dumping and cockroaches").
In June 2024, SRF (Swiss Radio and Television) aired the report "Bittere Früchte – Ausbeutung auf Europas Feldern" ("Bitter Fruit – Exploitation in Europe's Fields"), a short version of the documentary "The Pickers", which exposes modern slavery in the heart of Europe. It's worth watching, though difficult. The reason behind all this suffering? Fruits and vegetables have to be as cheap as possible.
So what happens when gebana oranges are harvested? The situation in Greece is anything but simple.
Farm work regulated in Greece
We've been importing oranges from Greece since 2013 – nearly 26'000 kilos in the first year. " "At the time, we only needed to deliver oranges to gebana during specific weeks," says Raphael Sacher, Chairman of the Board of Directors of our partner Anyfion. "The harvest was not strictly organised."
Since our focus in the beginning was on quality and logistics, neither we nor Anyfion had any direct influence on the harvest or the working conditions of the harvest workers. The family farmers did what all farmers did in Greece, which was to hire day labourers without asking too many questions.
This changed when Greece introduced a coupon-based payment system for farm workers and casual labourers in 2017. The aim of this system, called Ergosimo (Εργόσημο), is to establish basic regulations for employment in the agricultural sector, simplify payments, protect workers and prevent undeclared work.
Here's a simple explanation of how it works: The farmer buys the coupons from the post office or his or her bank (online or at a branch) and fills out the workers' names and national insurance numbers. The coupons are handed out to the workers once the work is completed. The workers then take the coupon to the post office or bank and receive their wages minus social security contributions (10 per cent). This can also be done online.
Even the best system can be bypassed
Although the system was set up with good intentions, it has been and continues to be abused. For one thing, it only works for workers with national insurance numbers. Undocumented migrants working illegally don't have any. They get around this by having one person with a national insurance number use a coupon to collect the money for an entire group of harvest workers. It is unclear how the money acquired in this way is distributed.
Given this lack of transparency, Anyfion launched an initial trial with its own group of harvest workers in 2019. Instead of relying on family farmers to recruit farm workers, Anyfion's group was sent from one farm to the next for the harvest. An external group leader managed and coordinated the group, and the workers continued to be paid by the family farmers who employed them. However, day labourers continued to be hired alongside this group, depending on the harvest situation.
The work is too hard for local workers
A year later, Anyfion went a step further by hiring a harvesting group. Anyfion still paid these workers by the day but took charge of the coordination. The aim of this approach was to assume more control, but it was suspended after two weeks.
"Our biggest challenge was recruitment, given that the number of migrant workers coming to Greece has declined," says Raphael Sacher. "We tried using locals, but they weren't up to the physically demanding work and couldn't perform at the required level."
The core issue is that the wages in Greek agriculture are lower than in other countries, such as Germany or Italy, making it unattractive to European labourers. This is partly due to the fact that Greece mainly exports to the Balkan countries.
As a result, they went back to relying on groups coordinated by external group leaders.
In 2020, we decided that one of our priorities for Greece was to work with Anyfion on creating better conditions for harvest workers. Since then, conditions have been steadily improving each year: better contracts, more permanent jobs instead of day labourers and improved oversight of the housing situation, food provision, possible exploitation and illegal practices.
Five refugees working in the orange groves
For the 2024/2025 season, Anyfion has made significant progress. Taking steps to address worsening labour shortages, the local team developed a pilot project together with the NGO Metadrasi and the company Workland to legally employ undocumented migrants. Metadrasi handled recruitment in the refugee camps, while Workland took over the administrative formalities.
With the help of these two organisations, Anyfion was able to hire five men from Syria and one from Palestine for the 2024/25 season. The latter has since left the group of his own accord.

The recruitment process took around one and a half months. The biggest hurdles were obtaining valid papers and bank accounts for the refugees. But everything worked out in the end. They were employed in accordance with the following terms:
• Seasonal contract with 6-day week and fixed working hours
• Monthly fixed salary of 820 euros, including social and health insurance
• Free work clothes
• Free accommodation in a house newly renovated by Anyfion
• Free internet access in the house
• Bicycle for excursions or shopping
• Free Greek lessons if requested
These conditions may seem obvious, but they are revolutionary for Greece and Europe, especially the fixed seasonal contract and fixed salary. "No other company in the industry offers that," Sacher points out.
The five men say they are very satisfied. "Anyfion treats us like friends, not like employees at a company. When we arrived, they gave us food and clothing because we didn't have any. They even covered our travel expenses. We are thankful to them for that," says Aamer Mohammad Mansour from Syria, speaking for all of them. "We'd like to work for Anyfion again next year. It's like a second home to us. We feel safe here and are treated well."
Continuing along our chosen path
This season, the five workers are harvesting nearly 10% of our oranges. We now ship over 1.5 million kilos of oranges per season. With quantities like this, a group of five men is simply not enough. That's why around 63 per cent of the fruit is still harvested by groups of workers coordinated by Anyfion who are not permanently employed but are paid by the day directly by the family farmers using coupons. Anyfion pays for the coupons in advance and deducts the cost at the end of the harvest.
The remaining 27 per cent is mostly handled by a very large farm with its own harvesting group and a few very small producers.
Greece has recently made changes to its tax system that will likely worsen working conditions for labourers in the agricultural sector. As from 2025, farm workers will have to pay taxes on their income.
A bank account is now required in order to redeem coupons at the bank. Workers can still redeem them at the post office without an account. However, more and more post offices are shutting down in Greece; as a result, the remaining branches are overwhelmed. The system is reaching its limits. Anyfion therefore expects to see a return to direct payments in cash and a renewed increase in undeclared work.
All the more reason for Anyfion to stay committed to its chosen path. The local team plans to at least double the number of migrants in its group next season. Despite certain efficiency problems at the outset, this approach ensures much better control over the working conditions of harvest workers and helps overcome the acute labour shortage. At the same time, those forced to leave their home countries are given a new opportunity in Europe.
Sources:
Zahnschmerzen, Lohndumping und Kakerlaken ("Toothaches, wage dumping and cockroaches"), Süddeutsche Zeitung (accessed on 6.1.2025)
Bittere Früchte – Ausbeutung auf Europas Feldern ("Bitter Fruit – Exploitation in Europe's Fields"), SRF (accessed on 6.1.2025)
Schockierende Arbeitsbedingungen in Schweizer Bauernbetrieben ("shocking working conditions on Swiss farms"), Infosperber (accessed on 6.1.2025)
Erntehelfer gesucht: Melonis Italien praktiziert eine zweischneidige Einwanderungspolitik ("Harvest workers wanted: Italy's immigration policy is a double-edged sword"), NZZ (accessed on 6.1.2025)
Nur Gutes aus der Region? Die Krux mit den Lebensmitteln von nebenan ("Only good things from the region? The dilemma of locally sourced food"), Geschichte der Gegenwart (accessed on 6.1.2025)
Bittere Bedingungen für Erntehelfer ("Harsh conditions for harvest workers"), Bauernzeitung (accessed on 6.1.2025)